Mar 122012
 

By the 1800′s, Prussian Blue and Sulphuric acid are available commercially. Prussian blue was formed from prussite of potash and iron salt, making it one of the earliest known chemical dyes. In 1856, William Henry Perkin, while experimenting with coal tar in hopes of finding an artificial quinine as a cure for malaria, discovered the first synthetic dye stuff which he called “Mauve”.   The color quickly became a favorite of the royal family, and a new industry was begun.  

Mauve: How One Man Invented a Color That Changed the World [Hardcover]

Simon Garfield (Author)

 

Types of Natural Dyes

Natural dyes can be sorted into three categories: natural dyes obtained from plants (indigo), those obtained from animals (cochineal), and those obtained from minerals (ocher). Although some fabrics such as silk and wool can be colored simply by being dipped in the dye, others such as cotton, require a mordant.

A mordant is an element which aids the chemical reaction that takes place between the dye and the fiber so that the dye is absorbed. Containers used for dying must be non-reactive (enamel, stainless steel.) Brass, copper or iron pots will do their own mordanting. Not all dyes need mordants to help them adhere to fabric. If they need no mordants, such as lichens and walnut hulls, they are called substantive dyes. If they do need a mordant, they are called adjective dyes.

Common mordants are: ALUM, usually used with cream of tartar, which helps evenness and brightens slightly; IRON (or copperas) which saddens or darken colors, bringing out green shades; TIN, usually used with cream of tartar, which blooms or brightens colors, especially reds, oranges and yellows; BLUE VITRIOL which saddens colors and brings out greens and TANNIC ACID used for tans and browns.

Mar 122012
 

The earliest dyes

by Kris Driessen

The ability of natural dyes to color textiles has been known since ancient times. The earliest written record of the use of natural dyes was found in China dated 2600BC. Chemical tests of red fabrics found in the tomb of King Tutankhamen in Egypt show the presence of alizarin, a pigment extracted from madder. In more modern times, Alexander the Great mentions having found purple robes dating to 541BC in the royal treasury when he conquered Susa, the Persian capital. Kermes (from the Kermes insect) is identified in the bible book of Exodus, where references are made to scarlet colored linen. By the 4th century AD, dyes such as woad, madder, weld, Brazilwood, and indigo and a dark reddish-purple were known. Brazil was named for the wood found there.

Purple was made from a mollusk and clothing made from it was so expensive only the royal family could afford it. It was extracted from a small gastropod mollusk found in all seas or from a crustacean called a Trumpet Shell or Purple Fish, found near Tyre on the Mediterranean coast. Their body secreted a deep purple fluid which was harvested by cracking the shell and digging out a vein located near the shellfish head with a small pointed utensil. The mucus-like contents of the veins were then mixed together and spread on silk or linen. Estimates are that it took 8,500 shellfish to produce one gram of the dye, hence the fact this dye was worth more than its weight in gold. This expensive dye was also mentioned in the bible, in Acts, where Lydia is a seller of purple.

By the 15th century, dyes from insects, such as cochineal and Kermes, were becoming more common. By the 17th century, dyeing cloth “in the wood” was introduced in England: logwood, fustic, etc. In the 18th century a method of bleaching linen with kelp was introduced in Scotland, a Swedish chemist discovered chlorine destroys vegetable colors and the French began to recommend chlorine water for commercial bleaching. Indigo began to be grown in England, and Cudbear, a natural dye prepared from a variety of lichens, is patented. Another natural dye, Quercitron, from the inner bark of the North American oak, is patented in 1775.  See The Red Dyes : Cochineal, Madder, and MurexPurple : A World Tour of Textile Techniques  

Mar 112012
 

Woodblock prints were initially used as early as the eighth century in Japan to disseminate texts, especially Buddhist scriptures.  The designer and painter Tawaraya Sotatsu (died ca. 1640) used wood stamps in the early seventeenth century to print designs on paper and silk. Until the eighteenth century, however, woodblock printing remained primarily a convenient method of reproducing written texts.

In 1765, new technology made it possible to produce single-sheet prints in a whole range of colors. Printmakers who had heretofore worked in monochrome and painted the colors in by hand, or had printed only a few colors, gradually came to use full polychrome painting to spectacular effect. The first polychrome prints, or nishiki-e, were calendars made on commission for a group of wealthy patrons in Edo, where it was the custom to exchange beautifully designed calendars at the beginning of the year.

Woodblock prints of the Edo period most frequently depicted the seductive courtesans and exciting kabuki actors (JP2822) of the urban pleasure districts. With time, their subject matter expanded to include famous romantic vistas and eventually, in the final years of the nineteenth century, dramatic historical events. These pictures could be made in great quantity and featured popular scenes that appealed in particular to the wealthy townspeople of the period.

Despite the fame of great print masters like Suzuki Harunobu (1725–1770) and Ando Hiroshige (1797–1858), each print required the collaboration of four experts: the designer, the engraver, the printer, and the publisher. A print was usually conceived and issued as a commercial venture by the publisher, who was often also a bookseller. It was he who chose the theme and determined the quality of the work. Designers were dependent on the skill and cooperation of their engravers and of the printers charged with executing their ideas in finished form.

A woodblock print image is first designed by the artist on paper and then transferred to a thin, partly transparent paper. Following the lines on the paper, now pasted to a wooden block usually of cherry wood, the carver chisels and cuts to create the original in negative—with the lines and areas to be colored raised in relief. Ink is applied to the surface of the woodblock. Rubbing a round pad over the back of a piece of paper laid over the top of the inked board makes a print.

Polychrome prints were made using a separate carved block for each color, which could number up to twenty. To print with precision using numerous blocks on a single paper sheet, a system of placing two cuts on the edge of each block to serve as alignment guides was employed. Paper made from the inner bark of mulberry trees was favored, as it was strong enough to withstand numerous rubbings on the various woodblocks and sufficiently absorbent to take up the ink and pigments. Reproductions, sometimes numbering in the thousands, could be made until the carvings on the woodblocks became worn.

Citation
Department of Asian Art. “Woodblock Prints in the Ukiyo-e Style”. In Heilbrunn Timeline of Art History. New York: The Metropolitan Museum of Art, 2000–. http://www.metmuseum.org/toah/hd/ukiy/hd_ukiy.htm (October 2003)

Further Reading
  • Guth, Christine. Japanese Art of the Edo Period. London: Weidenfeld & Nicolson, 1995.
  • Illing, Richard. The Art of Japanese Prints. London: Octopus, 1980.
  • Kanada, Margaret Miller. Color Woodblock Printmaking: The Traditional Method of Ukiyo-e. Tokyo: Shufunotomo, 1989.
  • Mason, Penelope. History of Japanese Art. Upper Saddle River, N.J.: Pearson Prentice Hall, 2004.
  • Merritt, Helen. Modern Japanese Woodblock Prints: The Early Years. Honolulu: University of Hawaii Press, 1990.
  • Singer, Robert T., ed. Edo: Art in Japan, 1615–1868. Washington: D.C.: National Gallery of Art, 1998.
  • Thompson, Sarah E., and H. D. Harootunian. Undercurrents in the Floating World: Censorship and Japanese Prints. New York: Asia Society Galleries, 1991.
Mar 102012
 


THE PROCESS
Draw your image onto a block of wood, which needs to be sanded if it isn’t smooth. You can draw with a pencil, but using a marker or sharpie pen will clearly show you which lines to cut. You can use any kind of wood but keep in mind that the softer the wood, the easier the cutting but, also, the rougher the result. So, if you are planning a very detailed picture with many fine lines, use a wood from a fruit tree which is harder.

CUTTING
For carving you need at least three basic cutting knives: one for the outline, another for removing wide unwanted areas and another for trimming waste near the printing areas.

You can hold your cutting knives either in your fist (for more pressure) or just like you hold your pen, for cutting with more accuracy. Now you need to cut around the black outlines keeping your knife at an angle to produce a bevelled edge on the final areas. The blade must go into the wood for about 1 or 2 mm. After oulining your design with this knife, remove all large areas of wood with a round chisel. For easier carving, follow the grain of the wood. At last, with the small flat chisel you need to remove the wood near your outlines carefully guiding the chisel with your fingers.

When this is done, you need to make “printing guides” or registration marks for your paper. You will need these to position the paper properly onto the block when printing.

PRINTING
You can use water based inks or oil based inks.

Mar 082012
 

Baltimore Album Quilts originated in Baltimore, Maryland in the 1840s. They have become one of the most popular styles of quilts and are still made today. These quilts are made up of a number of squares called blocks. Each block has been  appliqued with a different design. The designs are often floral, but many other motifs are also used, such as eagles and landmarks. They have a background of white and incorporate many primary colors such as reds, greens and blues.

History of the album quilt

Album Style Quilt

In the beginning, these quilts of appliquéd blocks were often designed by the maker. In time, patterns by accomplished designers were used.

Baltimore Album Quilts reflected the prosperous community of baltimore, the second largest city in the United States until the civil war, as most were made not with scraps, but with new fabric. Improvements in fabric manufacture and dying provided new colors that were incorporated into the album designs. As the popularity of this quilt style grew, women far beyond Baltimore began making these album quilts.

Most Baltimore Album quilts were signed. The discovery of an indelible ink made it possible to ink flowery poetry and sayings along with a signature on each block. It appears making these quilts were especially popular with young women. Many included blocks each made by a different person. The complexity of the designs of the blocks demonstrated the skill and taste of the maker. Many hours were devoted to the creation of each of these quilts, and many were carefully preserved as family heirlooms.

 

External links

 Resources for further reading

  • 2003: Elly Sienkiewicz. “The Best of Baltimore Beauties: More Patterns for Album Blocks” ISBN 1-57120-149-1
  • 1995: Sandi Fox. “For Purpose and Pleasure: Quilting Together in Nineteenth-Century America” ISBN 1-55853-337-0